The Eyes of the Tigers
mulaittivu—Shortly after the tsunami demolished much of the coast, beneath the shade of coconut trees, Regita collects palmyra leaves from the forest floor to stoke the cooking fire. Her face …
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Silent Takeover
lhasa —Tashi leaned over to me and whispered, “Don’t say anything, please. There are hidden microphones here.” We were entering the Potala Palace, the traditional seat of the Dalai Lama, …
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African Adventure
Curator Simon Njami on the enigmatic work of white South African artist Jane Alexander
Read MoreTo Catch a Thief
Koose Muniswamy Veerappan, known to many in India as “the forest bandit,” was the target of a decades-long manhunt that saw him shot dead in Tamil Nadu in October 2004. …
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Poppy Fields Forever?
Booming opium production in Afghanistan is the latest—and potentially greatest—threat to the beleaguered country’s steps toward democracy.
Read MoreA Mass for Romero
Liberation theology
in El Salvador
Moving Back to Chernobyl
chernobyl—Nineteen years after the biggest nuclear disaster in history spewed radioactive material across Europe, people are slowly moving back to Ukraine’s ground zero. Why? The region appears bucolic compared to …
Read MoreThe Wealth of Shamans
Ghosta, a shaman in rural Mongolia, sitting in his ortz (left). Byambadorj, Ghosta’s more successful urban counterpart, in his ger (right). / Photos by Allan Coukell hovsgol province/ulaan baatar—On a …
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The Kurdish New Wave
diyarbakir—Every weekday morning, Hekim Aydin hops on board a beat-up moped and rides to Diyarbakir city hall. He spends his days there archiving historical documents, occasionally getting to shoot a …
Read MoreA Sidewalk Tour of Yucatán
The character and history of Mérida in Mexico is enshrined in its limestone walls and walkways. / Photo by Neil Beer/corbis mérida—The best way to see Mérida, the heat-smitten capital …
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